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Summer Lodge Country House Hotel, Restaurant and Spa, Evershot, Dorset
09/07/2008
I don’t usually walk along the pavement in my dressing gown and slippers but I bet I’m not the first, or last guest who does this when staying at Summer Lodge, a rather luxurious Relais and Chateaux country hotel in Dorset.
On arrival I had expected the hotel to be a rather imposing, Georgian house with a formal atmosphere. But this attractive building, with roses neatly snaking around the windows, felt far too modest to accommodate 24 bedrooms and suites. Some staff, who were busily digging the immaculate flowerbeds, actually appeared to be enjoying themselves, and two elderly guests were dozing in deckchairs on the lawn.
I felt uneasy. Would the rooms border on the "cosy" or the "cupboard" side with chintzy furnishings and faded floral curtains? And would the service be so relaxed that it would resemble an old people’s home?
None of my fears rang true. A short tour revealed that in addition to the main house, two converted buildings (the coach house and stables) offer a handful of rooms, and none of the rooms are poky. Some even have two bathrooms (one with a toilet and the other with a walk-in shower and freestanding roll-top bath) while others have small private patio gardens, ideal for guests with dogs or those who want some private time al fresco.
Each room is individually decorated, with plush fabrics and original antiques. Some offer four-poster beds, others come with magnificent embroidered bedsteads coupled with modern amenities such as flat screen TVs. Some emit a traditional country cottage feel, while a couple have a crisper feel, while number 5 has a large mirror on the ceiling above the bed - a handy tip for couples who want to book - or perhaps avoid - it.
The hotel has also converted several cottages on the grounds or in the nearby village and it was in one of these, Ivy Cottage, where we stayed. Situated overlooking the village’s main street, Ivy Cottage is 50-metres walk from one of the hotel’s entrances (which is why I found myself one morning stepping out of my front door in by dressing gown, dressed for my session in the hotel’s mini-spa).
But I wouldn’t wish it any other way. There are few places where you can truly enjoy the space and privacy of a two-storey cottage next to all the facilities of a full-service hotel. Room service still operated like clockwork (and with a genuine smile). And we were able to breakfast in our private patio garden, dressed once again in bathrobes and slippers, before disappearing into a small summerhouse at the end of the garden for a dip in our private Jacuzzi for two.
Feeling so relaxed I only just remembered to get to dressed to explore the village, which is featured in many of Thomas Hardy’s novels. A stroll up the high street reveals a quintessential English village. Most of the buildings date from between the 17th and 19th centuries; there’s a thatched cottage, quaint church, bakery and a stone-built 16th-century village pub (The Acorn Inn) and post office store which were bought and run by the hotel in order to help sustain village life.
Next to the hotel’s vegetable garden is a small spa, indoor swimming pool and sauna, all housed in a large glass house with doors that can be rolled back in summer to sunbathe. The talented spa team is led by therapist Rosemary, who can perform all manner of magic tricks on your face and body. I enjoyed a 60-minute Swedish massage (£65) and was impressed by her intuitive nature. Using appropriate oils for my mood and concentrating on my problem areas, she soon had me wishing I had booked several sessions. While there are a range of slimming treatments, manicures and tanning, I would recommend the opportunity to sample aromatherapy, reflexology and Reiki, alongside other holistic treatments.
For those feeling a bit more active, there is croquet, an all-weather tennis court and numerous walking and cycling paths close by. The hotel adjoins a 9,000 acre deer park and bikes are available for hire. The staff will happily provide maps and suggest routes depending on your time and fitness. They have even mapped out routes where you can let your dog off lead.
But in my opinion, you’ll need the exercise. Food, served up by talented executive chef Steven Titman, is so divine in this three AA Rosette award-winning restaurant that you won’t be able to control yourself. Typically local, dishes are bursting in flavour with a clever combination of herbs and textures and many guests love the bread so much they ask to take some away.
For starters I enjoyed the pan-seared local scallops with plum tomatoes green asparagus and herb salad. Perhaps a little pricey at £17.50, but well worth the money if you can afford it. My husband ordered the duo of local beef, croquette and marinated, with rocket Mayonnaise (£16.95) and was suitably impressed.
My main course of freshly caught local sea bass with aromatic herb noodle salsa and wild garlic pesto (£27.50) was delicious although I found the anchovies a little overpowering and my husband had no complaints with his, the signature dish, a roast loin of Dorset lamb.
The Austrian sommelier Eric Zwiebel paired our wines perfectly and, for dessert, we fought over the Taste of Summer Lodge (a selection of miniature desserts to share). After all this, we could not do the gigantic cheeseboard justice and vowed to return again if we could afford it. At least for Sunday lunch, which is a real bargain (three courses for £25 with a choice of three dishes).
Equally tempting are the cream teas, taken in summer on the well-manicured lawns or the Thomas Hardy room.
The house has seen its fair share of celebrities. In 1995 the cast of "Sense and Sensibility" stayed at Summer Lodge while filming at nearby Montacute House. And in 1996 Gwyneth Paltrow was a guest here while scenes from "Emma" were filmed in Evershot. I just wonder if she dared venture out in her dressing gown. If she did, I think the villager postman would have paid slightly more attention than they did to me.
