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03/03/2008
Atmospheric, intimate dining room at this five-star Kensington hotel. Cheneston’s has a touch of the neo-gothic: the style is slightly quaint, with ruched napkins and cloches much in evidence but David Smith’s menu has something for everyone and sommelier Nicolas Clerc was Ruinart Sommelier of the year 2007. If you are a high-maintenance diner who appreciates space between table and old-fashioned courtesy then Cheneston’s is for you.